Morine- The Tibet of Herzegovina
19.07.2020 at 10:19
That there was still some good people we were convinced when we visited Adem Đipa; a humble man, human rock – a big man. We spent the night in his house in the village of Lake, at the foot of the mountain Crvanj. We had to take a break because we were toured Old Hercegovina longer. We started from Male and Velike Lelije, and Todor. The fog was hiding the surrounding peaks all the time, so that day we were deprived of all the beauty that could be seen from the top of Lelije (2032mnv). We descend into the darkness, in Ulog. From there is the way for the village Lake, where we will stay overnight. Until late into the night we listenedto Adam and Zaim recalling some of their stories. We changed the plan. When it comes to Zaim, you never know where you're spending the nights and where you'll end up. Adem decided to go with us, to show us the pitch and some of his old walking tracks. The last time he was at Morine was thirty-five years ago. Waking up and breakfast at five in the morning, and the morning coffee Adam's wife, Zineta made us, with every other word being, "Can I get you anything else?". We are on the way to Morina, which is located on the trome of three municipalities - Kalinovik, Gacko and Nevesinje. Morine is often called the European Tibet.
Morine was first mentioned in the 19th and 20th century, as the scene of many important and famous battles that are related to the local population of the surrounding villages: Koleska, Borca and Slivalja. In the Battle of Morina in 1831, Ali Pasha Rizvanbegović defeated the "Bosniak" army and Morina came in his possession. Later, Ali Pasha sold Morine, and the local population, and they used it for agriculture.
There are several theories about the origin of the name. One speculates that it has been named after the families who lived here long ago, as in most of the settlements in Herzegovina, and second theory is that they have been named after the Latin word mors, mortis-death, due to severe climatic conditions. The third theory is that the name came from Morine, an Old Slavic goddess of death, darkness and underground, which brought death to people.
Adem is telling us about the cruelty of this area. At Morine, people were dying for centuries due to a severe winter and the cold, the various rebellions or some sudden blizzards and storms, as it was when, according to tradition, was the wedding of Ljubović family. Only the bride, he says, survived the storm. The story about their death tells the Svatovsko cemetery in Morina. There are countless ancient cemeteries throughout Morina, including the most famous necropolis of the Djevojačko and Svatovsko cemetery, and the necropolis from the medieval Bosnian state.
We visited almost the entire plateau Morina, starting from Crvanjskog lakes below Ortoroga, one of the peaks of the mountain Crvanj of Jačišta-Bijelavina, Bukva-Ravni-Mitrevac-Guvništa-Jelećevina-Vukava-Svatovsko i Djevojačko groblje-Ukada-Divija šljiva and highest peak of Morina called Vrgorac, from where we descend to Guznic and Gvoznica, one of the Neretva tributaries. And Zineta welcomed us with an amasing luch . Unforgettable weekend with team: Zaim Bešović, Refik Mekić Refa, our host Adem Đipa and myself M. M.